Surf ~~~~
Do what you love & do it often.
Monte Clérigo 6 a.m.
"I think surfing has a culture that hasn’t been seen in the Olympics. In our community there is such a varied group of people from professionals to homeless. Anyone and everyone anywhere in the world can love surfing."
"Even if they don’t surf, they love what it looks like. The exposure that we have from traveling around the world to different languages, cultures, people — there is such a variety of life in surfing. I am not sure you can name another sport that has that."
"Surfing { alone } is a thought or an experience, is knowing how to disconnect, reflect and regenerate"
"I arrive at the beach and when I shake the wetsuit with the fresh sand splashing, I notice that the bottoms were not much after all and the waves of the set closed with authority."
"So I think at that moment that we all felt for some time the pleasure of being alone in the water, there are those who meritily look for big or perfect waves but the search for ourselves is transversal to any type of sea condition and is a greater luxury, the contemplation of those moments surpasses the pleasures of short duration."
"What is the point of catching the queen wave of the set if we are in a state of permanent anxiety because of the crowd?"
"Also the technology and the excess consumption of modern societies makes us want to achieve something by continually adding something, being alone in nature is a miraculous escape and represents the opposite, it is to remove and subtract, to learn to live with this less to the detriment of the more is a luxury that privileges us as surfers."
"I get out there after sending one of those classic hilarious lipe fault papers where I got stuck before I plummet I feel at that moment that the experience of being alone at sea is an end in itself, it is neither measured nor weighed like many other things but to lose that contemplative sense is to limit surfing to any other sport, improving surfing does not only mean evolving in maneuvers but in the most spiritual sense it means evolving our own self."
However, at the peak, I see a surfer giving a liberating laugh after an impressive fall, only the two of them in the water that his liberating laughter became ours, the complicity generated by the laughter just clarifies that deep down surfing alone does not transform our ability to surf in a satisfaction what transits yes is that inexplicable and useless energy in a vital and superior way of life, that come more buckets of these.